I know, I know. The first item on such a list for most intelligent Americans would be
"Stay out of Texas." As a (oxymoron warning!) thinking Texan, I readily admit
that thats a good way to start. Its funny and contains just enough truth to
have bite. But as a thinking Texas I would amend the line to "Avoid Crawford,"
and let it go at that.
The truth is, we are, all us Americans, in this mess together. More than once in recent
travels around the country, faced with some bit of natural or urban beauty, Ive been
brought up short by the thought that no doubt Germans in a certain tragic era enjoyed
immensely traveling around their lovely country, no matter what was happening in Berlin.
Certainly we are allTexans and non-Texans alikeresponsible for the stain of
intolerance and belligerence spreading empire-wise from Washington over the entire world.
Assume for the moment that most of us are working to restore sanity to American
government. Assume also that citizens of other countries still come here seeking to
glimpse the best of America.
For readers who are willing to hold those two assumptions, Ive assembled a list
from my own travels, call it the best of the best. Ten American moments that I treasure
and wish to share.
We, by the way, invite readers to submit their own lists. Main thing is: Keep them
brief. Ten items, each with 1) the experience, 2) the location, and 3) a one-sentence
commentary.
If you include one of the big tourist attractions in your list, you have to have a
pretty good reason for doing so.
As for my own list: After I got to 10, I kept thinking of other things that just HAD to
be included. So my list of 10 things to do grew to 15.
In alphabetical order:

Big Bend.
In the Lower 48 its becoming harder and harder to really get away from
it all. I was recently at the bottom of Death Valley enjoying the isolation and
solitude
when my cell rang. You can still escape, truly escape, in Big Bend National
Park, so-called because of the large U-shape made by the Rio Grande in far West Texas. The
huge park is high desert punctuated by very old volcanic upheavals, razor-thin deep
canyons, and a fine Shangri-La called "The Basin," a small valley thousands of
feet above the desert floor. Which is where the park lodge is. Ask for a room facing west.
The valley wall drops away in that direction, leaving an opening called "The
Window" through which, on good days, the view extends for 175 miles. On bad days,
when pollution from the maquiladoras across the border in Mexico causes the view to drop
to 50 miles, the chemicals will treat you to a sunset you wont see this side of Los
Angeles. Oh, I forgot to mention that cell phones dont work in the Basin, nor do
TVs. Nor radios. More info: http://www.nps.gov/bibe/
Café du Monde.
The Ninth Ward (and environs) may come
and go, but the Café du Monde by the levee in New Orleans we shall always have with us.
Beignets, Louisiana coffee, the Times-Picayune, with a view of Jackson square and the
cathedral
what more could you ask?
Caravaggio.
Cleveland, Ohio. The little city that
could in the 19th century struggled mightily as it discovered it couldnt in the
20th. Remnants and reminders of 19th-century wealth dot Cleveland, the biggest of which is
the Cleveland Museum of Art. Tucked in a park adjacent to Case Western Reserve University,
CMA developed its collection at a time when the sacking of Europe was still underway
(pace, Met), and Cleveland got some major treasures. The greatest of which is, strangely,
almost hidden away in a far back gallery: Caravaggios late masterpiece, The
Crucifixion of St. Andrew. If youre wondering why bother, read this
magazines report on a recent visit. More info: http://www.clemusart.com/
Corona del Mar.
California. The orange groves are gone,
the air is (to put it politely) murky, few mountains vistas are undiminished by
ticky-tacky $12-million manses clinging to their slopes. But. But. On rare occasion,
weather and traffic permitting, you can still catch a glimpse of the paradise that
California was. Come over the inland highway at sunset and, the gods willing, Corona del
Mar will open before you as it must have looked 100 years ago.
Fallingwater.
Convenient for the traveler, Frank Lloyd
Wright, the most American of architects, left stuff pretty widely scattered. In Chicago,
you can do house tours. In Phoenix, you can see Taliesin West, his winter house and
studio. Best of all, tucked away in the mountainous southwestern corner of Pennsylvania is
Fallingwater, the iconic over-the-top, over-the-creek house he built in the 1930s for a
Pittsburgh department store owner. The only private home ever to make the cover of Time,
Fallingwater, like a great painting, has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated.
Photographs give only a hint of its deceptively simple beauty, its virtuosic placement,
its astonishing, baffling rightness. The house and extensive grounds are now the property
of a conservancy. Reservations are required for both tours (one-hour, or three-hour: take
the longer one; youll seeand can photographeverything). More info: http://www.paconserve.org/index-fw1.asp
Hippie Hollow.
County Park 15 miles west of Austin,
Texas. The problem with nude beaches is sand, which gets into places you really dont
want sand to get into. Then theres the sun: nice for a while but youll
eventually be wishing for a spot of shade. Deep in the heart of Texas (!), Hippie Hollow
avoids both problems. Its a county park (!!) on the shores of a beautiful Hill
Country lake: conveniently flat limestone shelves stairstep down from the juniper forest
into the cool, clear water. Its clothing-optional. In such a paradise, few opt for
clothing.
I-90 across North Dakota.
The "Great" Plains, indeed.
Flyovers miss em. Tourists on the lower-numbered Interstates to the south miss
em. Set out westward from Minneapolis in your vehicle of choice and you cant
miss em, hour after hour after hour after hour.
Jemez Springs.
New Mexico. A few miles southwest of Los
Alamos, New Mexico, Highway 4 winds through Jemez Canyon, a thousand-foot-deep declivity
whose steep, forested slopes are dotted with unspoiled hot springs. You park. You climb.
You strip. You immerse. The ever-changing patch of sky is your video; the forest provides
the soundtrack. Your fellow immersees provide the smoke (if you so desire).
Key West.
Florida. Many of the best American cities
have only smidgens of uniqueness that have to be sought out. The island-city of Key West
is what it is and it is so entirely. How deep does the difference to? Pretty deep. Take
"time", for example. Island time, in the Keys, is not at all the same thing as
mainland time, and tourists, busy being tourists, almost never get it.
Kitty Hawk.
The Outer Banks of North Carolina are
hard to get to, but once there youll realize it was worth the trouble: great
beaches, good surf, and the National Park Service has done itself proud at the Wright
Brothers National Memorial. The museum and lectures will answer all your questions (Why
did the brothers come all the way here from Dayton, Ohio to do it? What does "Kitty
Hawk" mean anyway?). Youll come away with a deepened appreciation for what
Orville and Wilbur did on this remote North Carolina seashore. You could do worse than
take with you from the bookstore a copy of The Bishops Boys: A Life of Wilbur and
Orville Wright, by Tom Crouch. More info: http://www.nps.gov/wrbr.
Paradise, Michigan.
There are two ways to get to Paradise:
From the south (Detroit, etc.), which gives you the thrill of the Mackinac Straits bridge;
or from the west (Duluth, etc.) which gives you the thrill of about 300 miles of Upper
Peninsula pine-forest wilderness with occasional glimpses of Lake Superior off to your
left. When you finally get to Paradise, proceed to Curleys Motel (you cant
miss it), request a room on the back, and then spend whatever time you have contemplating
the deep beauty of Lake Superior about 50 feet away either through your picture window (if
its cold) or (if its not) on the "beach".
Seneca Falls.
1848: Thats when the first
international meeting on womens rights was held. In Seneca Falls, New York, a lovely
little Finger Lakes village. Yep, it all started in this unlikely place. Why? How? Go and
find out. Much of the town is a national historic site. The National Park Service has done
itself proud with an excellent museum adjacent to the remains of the building where the
first meeting took place, complete with a water wall on which is inscribed the Declaration
of Womens Rights. It all comes together in a powerful sense of place, of time, of
victories won, and of victories still to be won.
Slave Market.
6 Chalmers Street, Charleston, South
Carolina, known as "The Old Slave Mart." You can search the Internet, you can
search physically, and in all the United States, where for three and a half centuries
every city of any size had a place for the buying and selling of slaves, you will find
only one surviving building, the Old Slave Mart in Charleston. Indeed, the number of
cities that even have a marker indicating such a site can be counted on fewer than the
fingers of one hand. America cannot be understood without remembrance of slavery. Go to
Charleston and contemplate the one extant reminder of what this "democracy" did
for so long.
Trail of Tears.
In 1830 Congress passed the Indian
Removal Act. All Native Americans east of the Mississippi were to be forcibly moved west
of the Mississippi. The tragic culmination came in 1838 when some 16,000 Cherokees in the
southern Appalachian Mountains were moved to what was then known as the Indian Territory
(now part of Arkansas and Oklahoma). Most walked. Many died. You can read a fairly
detailed summary of what happened here: http://www.nationaltota.org/the-story/
In 1987 Congress designated the Trail of Tears as a national historic trail. The
northerly route is now marked, sort of. A good single place to visit is the New Echota
Cherokee Capital State Historic Site in northwestern Georgia. More info: http://www.nps.gov/trte/ and http://www.nationaltota.org/
Vietnam Veterans Memorial.
Washington, D.C.
That's 15, and I left out the San Joaquin Valley (California) on a spring morning, State
Highway 7 through the Ozarks (Arkansas), Highway 50 through the Black Canyon (Colorado),
Sedona (Arizona), any backroad in West Virginia, the coastline of Maine, Kapalua Beach
(Hawaii), any mountain in Alaska, etc. Etc. <Sigh>
The Ten Worst Things to Do
Note: Just because theyre the "worst" things to do doesnt
necessarily mean you shouldnt do them. You wont enjoy any of these outings but
you may well (probably will) learn important stuff about not just America but about human
beings generally.
Sit through a Virgil
Thomson opera anywhere.
Go to a California nude
beach.
Attend the Indianapolis 500.
Hang out in Dallas.
Go to an NFL game.
Fly anywhere (instead of
driving).
Tour a feed lot.
Spend time in the presence of
a Frank Gehry building.
Search for an honest person
in Washington, D.C.
Search for an humble person
in Seattle.
Pay $100 for a ticket to a
Broadway show.